Don't Mock the Buzzkills

The new non-alcohol spirits, aperitifs, and mixers aren't your daddy's "near beer"

I had a great time with a Dry January piece a while back, and I heard from several people that they found it helpful. As we head into wedding and backyard BBQ season, I’d like to say more about ways to try dry, even if you don’t teetotal entirely. As a dietitian, I often recommend that everybody drink less than they do now, as I explained in that piece, because it looks like there’s actually no safe amount of alcohol, especially in terms of cancer risk. I hope you’ll think about trying some of these, or having them available for guests who’d prefer to drink less alcohol, or none at all.

If you tried a mocktail somewhere years ago and were underwhelmed, I hope you’ll give the new kids a whirl. There are several non-alcohol manufacturers that have worked some kind of alchemy on flavors and mouth feel — they’ve conjured some of the pleasant burn and a lot of the aromatics out of non-alcohol spirits, and they’re also lower calorie. Read on for reviews of several specific brands, and then a Zen primer on tasting that could apply to anything, not just mocktails, below.

Aplós

I tried Ghia’s soda and Curious Elixirs in January, and both have remained favorites. In that vein is Aplós. I really like the Chili Margarita one. It has just the right level of chili burn, and a botanical, aloe-adjacent background flavor. This brand is more juicy, less bitter/burn-y than some of the others. That’s not a criticism — it’s what a lot of people prefer. I love the sophisticated, minimalist label — such things might seem shallow, but if you’re in an environment where you’d prefer not to broadcast that you’ve chosen a non-alcoholic drink, it’ll blend right in. They’ve also leaned in on ingredients with at least a potential for health or functional benefits, like Vitamin D, ginseng, l-theanine, and others.

The only thing I don’t love about it is the erythritol, which is one of the sugar alcohols that may carry some heart health risk. Alcohol has risks too, though, and if you’re avoiding added sugars for keto purposes or some other health reason, it might make sense. Aplós also has a distilled hemp spirit called Calme that I haven’t tried yet, but it’s on my list — no sweeteners in that one.

ISH

ISH’s London Dry Gin is amazing. The juniper is so crisp, and there’s an unexpected balsam note that is a real triumph. I tried it in a mocktail of my own invention, the Jalapeño Foghorn (ISH Gin, ginger beer, fresh jalapeno on the rim and a couple of slices in the glass), and could not have been happier.

I also riffed on the French Blonde I covered for TODAY in articles about Taylor Swift’s favorite cocktail, and about the Swedish candy fad. How does Swedish candy tie in? Well, the French Blonde has an elderflower liqueur in it, and gosh, somehow I don’t have a zero alcohol St. Germain lying around. What I do have is BonBon’s own brand of naturally-flavored elderflower Swedish fish candy. It’s a truly stellar sweet, and like most real Swedish candy, it’s made from glucose and cornstarch instead of corn syrup and gelatin. So, I melted it in hot water, strained, and added to Cara Cara orange juice, ISH rum, and a dash of bitters.

I’m calling it a French Ginger. It’s garnished with a Swedish fish head, and I expect Tay-Tay to be photographed drinking one any day now.

ISH’s Spiced Rum really surprised me, too. I made a frozen lime daiquiri out of it, and even with the potential for dilution, it held up…although I think if you let it melt too much, it might underwhelm. Next time, I’ll leave it on the rocks.

Ghia

Ghia’s aperitif might be the best choice if you like a little seltzer added to your mocktails. The bubbly really spikes the amaro-like flavor. It also worked well with cranberry juice shown below, and with grapefruit, and with warm spices in syrup. There’s a depth of color to this one that I find really appealing, which is why their recipe section is one of the most visually inspiring out there — I’ve got my eye on that pear-based Holidaze and the hot mulled Slow Burn for the fall and winter. And, their canned soda version remains my favorite canned mocktail to date, especially the Sumac.

Explorer Coffee and Chai

If you try something you don’t like right out of the gate, don’t panic — just give it another shot, and you might find something truly transcendent. For instance, I personally don’t like Curious Elixir’s #5 (I still think you should try it even though it wasn’t my thing — maybe you enjoy feeling like you’ve snorted a 1/4 oz. of sawdust hand-sanded from an aged oak barrel). And, when I tried a mock-tail version of a fave of mine, the Christmas Vacation, I hated it.

But it’s not the ingredients’ fault — I used ISH’s rum, and Explorer Cold Brew’s coffee and chai concentrates, and those are all excellent, but the flavor profile for this round, winter drink didn’t work with Explorer’s lemon-spiked chai. I tried it with the ISH rum again in a Mr. Curtis shown on the left below, though, and it was an absolute joy. Both the rum and the chai were flavor-forward, lovely balance.

If brunch-time mimosas or espresso martinis are your jam, by the way, this kind of mocktail could be your personal ticket. It might seem pricey, but if you do a little math, Explorer’s VERY CONCENTRATED cold brew will run you about $2 for a tall latte — a bargain by Starbucks standards, and it’s organic and fair trade. If you liked Starbucks’ old Gazebo blend iced, you’ll love this one, although when you add milk (or water + half and half), it’s nicely balanced in terms of acidity. It’s also perfect for a brunch option on the right above, which has divided the internet more than once: orange juice and coffee.

I know, I know — there’s no way it’s good, right? Well, have you ever had a sip of coffee with a lemon bar and felt like the universe opened? Then this drink is for you. It’s the culinary unicorn of sweet, tart, and deep. If you’d like to get a caffeine hit with a more orange, less roast, you can try Explorer’s Maverick version, which has enough caffeine to kill a water buffalo at 50 yards.

(Oh, one more thing about mixer options — I emailed the folks at Bartesian, who make this crazy mixing contraption that works kind of like a Keurig but for cocktails, and they tell me that their pods should work with non-alcohol spirits just fine. I haven’t tried them, but it’s apparently an easy and gizmo-related option.)

The Pathfinder Hemp and Root

The real standout in the things I tried? The Pathfinder. The label is enchanting, and that goes a long way for me, but if it were terrible, it’d remain on the shelf nonetheless.

It’s not terrible, though — it’s an unmitigated delight. Despite being the color of tobacco juice, the woody undertones I didn’t like in Curious’ #5 somehow work totally differently here, and I think it’s the influence from the other ingredients — citrus, saffron, angelica. It’s tastes like the magical snake oil in some favorite fairy tale of yours. I tried it several different ways, and their “Libations” suggestions are creative and gorgeous, but my favorite was the tip right on the bottle — Pathfinder, lemon juice, and seltzer. That one, pictured at top, just made me happy, you know?

But, mixed with ISH’s gin and a little Ghia, it also made something not totally unlike a Negroni. It’s not as beautifully red, but the bitterness, the citrus, the herbals…I loved that one, too.

I can’t say for sure why, but most of these gave me a feeling of ease and happiness not totally unlike an alcohol buzz. Maybe it’s the ritual of mixing, maybe it’s placebo effect, or maybe a few of the herbal ingredients add just a touch of euphoria. I don’t really care why, though. It’s just fun, without the risk of alcoholic cirrhosis. What could be better?

Okay, have I talked you into trying one of these? Great! Both your liver and I thank you. But just a short tiptoe through one of the non-alcohol websites will leave your head spinning. Let’s talk about how to approach this new horizon.

Keep in mind that although these are highly reminiscent of their alcohol-containing cocktail namesakes, they are not usually dead ringers. If you have an adult beverage that is a real favorite, that you’ve had many times and especially if it’s one where you insist upon a particular brand of liquor or mixer, it might be a good idea to start somewhere else, with a different bevvie entirely. (It’s kind of like how I love red lentil pasta for quick lunch Buddha bowls or primavera, but if I’m making old fashioned spaghetti and meatballs the way I liked them as a child, lentil pasta just won’t do.)

Your moment of Zen

Once you choose a non-alcoholic spirit to try, think of it as a mind-opening exercise. Try to let go of expectations you have based on prior experience with cocktails and mocktails. You won’t be able to totally drop them, but try to loosen around the edges.

• First, taste the spirit by its lonesome, just a little sip. Maybe you’ll decide you like it neat, but more likely this is so that you understand the flavors. Think about its basic qualities — mouthfeel, acidity, burn — but also the details. What do you taste? Juniper, ginger, aloe, herbs? Take a look at the label and see whether there are other flavors listed that you couldn’t place.

• Notice your response without judgment. It’s okay if you think you hate it — remember, this kind of ingredient is usually an element in an ensemble cast. Ever tried vanilla extract plain? Ugh. And yet, when it’s one note in a symphony of ice cream or muffins, it’s a very important note indeed.

• Now, if you are starting with a recipe, you could make just half of it to give it a try, and then make adjustments. You might find you add less seltzer, for instance, or prefer these more subtle flavors on the rocks instead of frozen, for less dilution.

• Once you decide on some ratios and flavors, think about a functional garnish. I found that details like a little sprinkle of pink salt or citrus rubbed around the rim, or a slice of jalapeno, really took some of these mocktails over the finish line.

• Finally, sip. Because you can down these in a couple of gulps, you might find you have, if you don’t remind yourself to savor. Take a minute to feel what it’s like to be in your body. Notice your feet pressing into the earth, your breath filling your lungs. Take up space. This beverage, with ingredients from all over the world which took millions of years of evolution, the work of many beings, and the transformation of other forms of life to perfect, is here…

for you.

Even though I don’t routinely point it out explicitly, these musings of mine are always rooted in Zen. (Yes, even the Jell-O ones.) This particular musing, however, is an irresistible opportunity to make it overt. It might not feel true at first, but if you keep rolling it over as time passes, it will eventually soak through.

So, here it is, your moment of Zen:

This sip, this instant of sensory curiosity, is your whole life. It’s complete, perfect. Whether you like the taste or not, there is no other experience that you need to pursue in order to attain wisdom, or truth, or beauty. Paying attention to the moment is itself enlightenment.

What is the true nature of the flavor? It might take a long time to see, but once you really understand that, well…

Then you can get started.

RD note: The Zero Proof, Ghia, and Explorer Cold Brew provided samples that I decided to use in this piece, but there was no guarantee of placement, and this is not an ad — I did not receive financial compensation and have no promo deal with any of them. I already had the Central Market ginger soda around and purchased it myself, but I actually prefer Fever Tree Ginger Beer — it’s the best I’ve ever tasted, and their tonic is great, too.

It varies widely, but many non-alcoholic drinks and spirits have herbal ingredients that could interact with various medications or conditions, so read labels and talk over any questions you may have with your doctor or pharmacist. Most of them are things that are in wide culinary use and unlikely to be an issue, but it doesn’t hurt to check, especially if you are pregnant, nursing, or have liver or kidney problems.

Finally, a note about storage: Since these don’t have alcohol in them, they have a shorter shelf-life. Follow any instructions on the one you buy, but Club Soda has a great overview about how to keep your non-alcohol picks tasting their best here.