Future Vintage: Apple Cider-Pumpkin Pie Gelatin Mold Recipe

Batten down the hatches -- we're going off-book with an autumnal mold of my own creation

I just can’t go very long without trying a vintage recipe with a little wobble, but with that little nip in the air (finally), I was desperate for something that screams “FALL”, and there’s not much out there in the cookbooks of yesteryear.

I did find this 1980s magazine ad, but it doesn’t go quite far enough, and I feel it’ll just taste like orange. That’s one of my big complaints about Jell-O, that the base flavor can take over. Plus, I want a towering mold — this recipe would sink like an overloaded galleon if tasked with supporting its own weight.

So, I’ve decided to chart my own course. Will I find riches untold in the land of inadvisable gelatin recipes, or is it more “Here be dragons”-flavored? Gather your courage, ye scurvy dogs, and come with me!

I’ve made enough gelatin recipes over the years that I can usually guess at the ratios needed for proper gelling. You have to think about acid, fat, enzymes, and alcohol when deciding on the amount of liquid per gram of gelatin — all of those will interfere with hydrogen bonding between amino acids that results in a solid-liquid mashup called a colloid.

Since I want my chosen autumnal flavors to really shine through, I’ve decided to go with unflavored Knox this time. In general, one packet of Knox will gel 2 cups of liquid, but I want this to be a little bit firmer since it’s for a bombe shape, especially the base layer. There’s also going to be some fat and acid to account for, so I’m going to use about 1 2/3 cup of mix-ins per packet.

Here are my chosen ingredients. Can you guess?

(That’s eggnog in the measuring cup there, but if you’re an eggnog hater, don’t despair…there’s an easy fix below.)

It’s layered cider and pumpkin-eggnog pie gelatin!

There are several ways to ensure proper mixing of powdered gelatin, but when there’s sugar in the mix, you can skip the cold blooming, so I’ve stirred brown sugar and a packet of Knox before adding boiling cider to dissolve, and then adding the rest of the cider cold.

I ran a little test with just a dab in the freezer for a few minutes. When I do this and it’s too runny, I have time to add more dissolved gelatin. If it’s rubbery, I can add more liquid. This time, it looks promising, so it’s full steam ahead.

I like to use ice baths to get things polymerizing quickly! Even so, I let it chill for about 20 minutes before repeating the sugar+Knox+hot stuff for the pumpkin pie-eggnog layer. I toasted up the pumpkin spice in a dry skillet so it wouldn’t have that raw taste that ruins so many cold fall desserts, and when it was all mixed, I very very very carefully spooned it over the cider layer as gently as possible. If you go too fast, you get unwanted incursions into your first layer. This is especially unfortunate if one of your layers is in baby poop color territory.

Unsettling color is just one of the perils of properly spiced pumpkin pie filling. What price glory!

Fortunately, it all gelled right up, and since I am insane and made Alton Brown’s homemade candy corn this week, I’ve got the world’s most appropriate garnish. (Could you make it any flavor? You sure could, but I don’t think you can improve on this perfection.)

I settled on serving it on a bed of crushed graham crackers to lean into the pie effect. The eggnog disappears among the other strong flavors — I might make an eggnog only layer next time so it stands out, but if you don’t like it, just sub in any milk or milk-like substance.

As it is, I have to say, no bizarro gelatin mold has any business being this delicious. The cider layer is tender but vibrantly flavored, and the pumpkin layer has a texture a lot like the familiar pie, dense and smooth. With the cracker crumbs, it’s pretty close to heaven!

…even if the color is a little hellish.

Looking for a holiday gelatin salad that’s actually edible? This one might fit the bill, and it’s easy as…actually, you know what? It’s easier than pie!

Apple Cider-Pumpkin Pie Gelatin Mold

Serves 12

2 packets unflavored Knox gelatin

1/2 c plus 2 T brown sugar, divided

1 2/3 c apple cider, divided

1 c canned pumpkin (not pie filling)

1/2 c eggnog (or milk, or plant-based milk)

1/2 tsp pumpkin spice

12 graham cracker squares or 24 ginger snaps, crushed (optional, and alternate garnishes could include whipped cream, whipped topping, or candy pieces)

Mix 2 T brown sugar with one of the gelatin packets, making sure the gelatin powder is evenly distributed without clumps. Add 1/3 c of boiling cider and stir until all the gelatin is dissolved, at least a couple of minutes. Add remaining 1 1/3 cups of cider, cold.

Pour into lightly greased, 4 c gelatin mold (I usually spray it and wipe most of it out) and chill until set but not firm — chill too long and your layers will separate when sliced. It depends on the depth of your mold and whether you use an ice bath, but it’ll be at least 15 minutes, and probably not more than 40.

Meanwhile, toast the pumpkin spice in a dry skillet over medium high heat just until fragrant, a minute or two. Blend with the pumpkin and eggnog or milk. Mix remaining brown sugar and gelatin packet, add about 1/2 c of the pumpkin mixture, and microwave 30-40 seconds. Stir very well until gelatin is completely dissolved, at least 2 minutes. Add the rest of the pumpkin mixture cold and stir well. Spoon onto the set cider layer very carefully, so that it doesn’t break through.

Chill until firm, at least 2 hours or overnight. Set the mold in warm water for 5 seconds and unmold onto serving dish. Slice and serve on a bed of graham cracker or gingersnap crumbs, or opt for whipped topping and candy corn or Mellowcreme pumpkins.

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